Satureja hortensis.
The traditional Québec aromatic herb par excellence, and one of the great unknowns of contemporary cooking — a paradox for a plant that has perfumed our tourtières, our pig's-trotter stew, our cretons and our meat pies since the arrival of the first French settlers in the 17th century. Savory has, in fact, accompanied human cuisine for far longer — already cultivated by the Romans, who used it as one of the rare pungent condiments at their disposal before the arrival of Indian pepper. Its very name is said to come from the satyrs of Greek mythology, to whom were attributed aphrodisiac virtues transmitted by the plant. In Germany it is prettily called Bohnenkraut, "the bean herb," because it is inseparable from the cooking of beans and broad beans across all of Central Europe.
An annual plant 30 to 45 cm tall, light and airy in habit, with fine elongated grey-green leaves covered in July with a cloud of tiny pinkish-white flowers very attractive to bees. Intense, peppery flavour, halfway between thyme and mint, with a subtle warmth on the finish. More delicate and refined than its perennial cousin winter savory, it's the version sought by discerning cooks. Indispensable with all legumes (beans, lentils, baked beans) — tradition says it eases their digestion, which science partly confirms — classic with game, poultry, pork, long-simmered stews, and of course herbes de Provence, of which it is one of the five canonical ingredients (with thyme, rosemary, oregano, marjoram).
Grower's tip: Capricious germination at cool temperatures — wait until the soil is solidly warmed (15 °C minimum) before direct-sowing, or start indoors 6 to 8 weeks before planting out. Surface sowing — the seeds need light to germinate. Pinch the flower buds in early summer to prolong production of tender leaves, or let it flower at season's end to harvest seeds (it self-seeds readily). For drying, cut the stems in bundles just before full bloom, hang upside down in an airy, dark spot, then strip the leaves and store in airtight jars — it keeps its perfume for at least a year.
- Open-pollinated. Annual. Self-fertile but visited by bees, which can cause some crossing with other savories nearby.
- Height: 30 to 45 cm.
- Maturity: 60 to 70 days for full size; first usable leaves from 6 weeks.
- Exposure: full sun.
- Ordinary to poor soil, well-drained. Tolerates drought. Space plants 20 to 25 cm apart.
- Start indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last frost, or direct-sow late May / early June once the soil is at 15 °C minimum. Self-seeds generously.
