Cucurbita pepo.

The marrow squash is an almost exclusively British horticultural category — the mature, plump version of a zucchini cousin, popularized in 19th-century English horticulture and become a veritable symbol of the British suburban garden. Where Italy selected the zucchini to be picked young, and where North America domesticated the crookneck (also for early picking), England on the contrary perfected the "vegetable marrow" — to be allowed to fully ripen in the garden — a culture as characteristic of British market-gardening identity as tomatoes are of Italian vegetable gardens. Mrs Beeton and Eliza Acton, the great Victorian cookbook authors, devote whole chapters to it. To this day, the biggest-marrow competitions remain one of the star events of English summer agricultural fairs, with some specimens exceeding 30 kilograms.

A bushy to semi-running plant 75 cm to 1.2 m tall, with large dark green leaves and the yellow-orange flowers characteristic of the species. Oblong torpedo-shaped fruits 30 to 45 cm long (and 12 to 18 cm across, 2 to 4 kg on average when reasonably harvested), with smooth pale green skin sometimes streaked with cream-yellow, firm and dense cream-white flesh — much less watery than an equivalent mature zucchini. Mild, neutral flavour, almost like a large tender potato — particularly well suited to stuffed preparations. The British signature dish: stuffed marrow — cut the squash in two lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, fill the cavity with a mix of ground beef, onions, herbs, rice and tomatoes, gratin in the oven 45 minutes — it's the Anglo-Saxon equivalent of Provençal stuffed vegetables or Portuguese stuffed potatoes. Also as marrow chutney (sweet-and-sour chutney with marrow, ginger, onion and vinegar, kept in jars for the year), as marrow jam (sweet jam flavoured with ginger and lemon), or simply cubed in a curry, an enriched ratatouille, or a cream soup.

Grower's tip: Grow exactly like a zucchini or a crookneck. Indoor start 3 to 4 weeks before transplanting, or direct-sow in early June once the soil is well warmed to 18 °C. Like all Cucurbita pepo, vulnerable to the squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae) — same prevention advice as for the summer squashes already described. Pick at 30-45 cm long for immediate use; let mature longer on the plant if you want a keeping marrow (the skin then hardens and the squash keeps 4 to 6 weeks in a cool, dry place).

Tip: marrows left too long on the plant considerably slow the production of the next ones — better to harvest regularly and cook or give away the surplus than to wait for the giant specimens of English competitions.

• Open-pollinated. British heirloom variety. Annual. Monoecious, bee-pollinated, so crosses with other Cucurbita pepo (zucchini, crookneck, pumpkins, pattypan) — isolate for seed saving.
• Vine length: 75 cm to 1.2 m, bushy to semi-running habit.
• Maturity: 55 to 65 days after transplant for the first usable fruits.
• Exposure: full sun, warmth.
• Very rich, well-drained, warm soil. Generous compost application at planting. Space plants 90 cm apart.
• Indoor start 3 to 4 weeks before transplanting, or direct-sow in early June once the soil is at 18 °C. Storage 4 to 6 weeks for mature fruits in a cool, dry place.