Cynara scolymus.

One of the most aristocratic vegetables of the Mediterranean garden, and probably the most spectacular to watch grow. The artichoke has been cultivated since antiquity — already present in Egyptian tombs around 700 BC, celebrated by the Greeks (who made it a nymph, Cynara, transformed into a plant by Zeus in a fit of amorous rage), adored by the Romans, who considered it an absolute luxury dish. In the 16th century, it was Catherine de' Medici who had it cross the Alps into France by introducing it at the Valois court, scandalizing the French nobility, who saw in this Italian artichoke a food too sensuous for the court's ladies. The French name itself comes from the Arabic al-kharshūf, testimony to the plant's long journey through the Mediterranean world.

A plant of genuine ornamental beauty, which can reach 1 to 1.5 m tall at full maturity, with large divided silver-green leaves of an almost architectural effect. The edible part — what is commonly called "the artichoke" — is in reality the immature flower bud; if you let the plant flower, it deploys at the top of long stems spectacular giant-thistle blooms of electric violet, of breathtaking beauty, irresistible to bumblebees.

A unique flavour in cooking — half-bitter half-sweet, with tender, melting flesh. At table, it's the whole artichoke in salted boiling water for 30 to 45 minutes, eaten leaf by leaf by scraping the base between the teeth with melted butter or a mustard vinaigrette, then the heart shared like a treasure. It's also carciofi alla romana simmered in olive oil and mint, the Provençal artichaut à la barigoule, hearts marinated in jars for the apéritif, or the simple topping on an Italian pizza.

Grower's tip: The artichoke isn't for the impatient nor for timid gardeners. Naturally a perennial (hardy only in zone 7), in Québec you must either grow it as a single-cycle annual or dig up the roots in fall to overwinter them sheltered from frost. To produce artichokes the first year from seed, two mandatory steps: very early indoor start (10 to 12 weeks before last frost), then vernalization of the young plants by exposing the seedlings for 2 to 4 weeks to temperatures of 5 to 10 °C (out at night when it's cool, or in the fridge) before transplanting to the garden. Without this vernalization, the plant stays vegetative the first year and produces flower buds only the second — which, in our climate, means never having any. Harvest the buds firmly closed, before they start to open.

• Open-pollinated. Tender perennial (zone 7), grown as an annual in Québec or overwintered indoors. Insect-pollinated; crosses with cardoon and other artichokes — isolate for seed saving.
• Height: 1 to 1.5 m.
• Maturity: 85 to 120 days after transplant for the first buds.
• Exposure: full sun, sheltered from wind.
• Very rich, deep, well-drained soil. A very hungry plant — amend generously with mature compost. Space plants 90 cm apart in all directions — it takes up room.
• Indoor start 10 to 12 weeks before last frost, at 22-25 °C. Vernalize young plants 2 to 4 weeks at 5-10 °C before transplanting in early June to trigger flowering in the first year.